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You haven’t seen this side of Hawaii: The quiet, remote town of Hana, Maui

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You haven’t seen this side of Hawaii: The quiet, remote town of Hana, Maui

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  • Hana, located on southeastern Maui, is a secluded town known for its slow pace and old Hawaii charm.
  • Hana provides a unique and authentic Hawaiian experience away from the crowds and commercialism of more popular tourist destinations.
  • Visitors are encouraged to support local businesses and respect the cultural heritage of the community.

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HANA, Maui — Growing up in Hawaii, I would chuckle if someone were to ask me for a “pristine and uncrowded” place to visit in the islands.

That’s because you’d be hard-pressed to find it. While there are plenty of paradisal experiences in Hawaii – from white sand beaches to epic waterfalls – there’s also no shortage of tourists. By now, the must-visit places are already on everyone’s itinerary and tourist hot spots like Waikiki and Kaanapali are developed into a mini-metropolis. (As for the secret spots, that’s only for locals.)

Then, I went to Hana and now my mind is changed.

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Located on southeastern Maui, Hana is a former sugar plantation and cattle ranching town that’s one of the last few places still going at the slow pace of old Hawaii. Surrounded by rainforests and volcanic coastlines, this secluded haven has one of the smallest populations in the state, with only 731 residents and little development.

There are no rows of resorts, high-end stores or major chains here, just one grocery store and a general store. Instead, locals sell the extra avocados and bananas from their trees on roadside stands with a jar nearby for leaving payment on an honor system. White sand is traded for dark lava rock sand and rugged cliffs. And yes, you’ll lose cell service in parts of town.

“I love Hana because it’s one big ohana (family),” said Hana-Maui Resort’s event sales and planning manager Kaukaohulani Morton, whose family can trace back generations in Hana. “It’s not just a community of people who are close-knit, everyone is family.”

Hana has preserved its small-town character thanks to its remote location – there’s no major U.S. airport service and road access is limited to the winding Road to Hana. Some brave tourists make the hours-long drive, but most don’t end up staying overnight, leading to a quieter Hawaii experience.

Where to stay in Hana

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There’s only one major resort in Hana but you won’t be disappointed. First opened in 1946, the Hana-Maui Resort, a Destination by Hyatt hotel, is a boutique property. Situated on a cliff overlooking the ocean, it has around 74 plantation-style bungalows spread out over 75 acres, blending in perfectly with the lush landscape. No packed elevators and high-rises here. There’s also a restaurant, indoor-outdoor spa, yoga studio and infinity pool. Since the property faces east, the sunrises are spectacular.

You can also camp at Waianapanapa State Park or stay at one of the smaller bed and breakfasts.

What to do in Hana

In a place brimming with raw natural beauty like Hana, the best way to truly experience it is by exploring the outdoors.

  • Waianapanapa State Park is the crown jewel of Hana with 122 acres of wild landscapes like sea caves, stone arches and hala tree forests to show visitors what Hawaii looks like when left untouched. Hang out at the famous black sand beach or meander the six miles of trails through ancient sites and pictographs. Reservations are required for non-residents and can be made online.
  • Kahanu Garden offers a peaceful retreat and glimpse into Hawaiian culture. “You’re probably gonna feel like you’re taken back in time because the land is so sacred,” Morton said. This ethnobotanical garden features plants significant in Hawaiian culture, preserved ancient homes and gravesites, and the Piilanihale Heiau, Polynesia’s largest ancient structure that was once the residence of 16th-century Native Hawaiian chief Piilani. You can book a guided tour ($30 for adults, free for kids under 12) or go on your own ($18 for adults, free for kids under 12.)

  • When in Hawaii, you obviously need to go to the beach. Flanked by sea cliffs, the crescent-shaped Hamoa Beach is a beautiful place to spend the afternoon. Then there’s the famous Hana Bay, the “gathering spot for all the locals,” according to Morton.

  • Eat local. Food trucks are abound in Hana, from Thai food to coffee to poke bowls made from freshly caught fish. If you have a sweet tooth, you’re in luck. Since banana trees flourish in Hana, the town is famous for its banana bread. Stop by Hana Farms and grab a loaf of one of the many varieties.
  • Hike to Fagan’s Cross. Paul Fagan, the Californian who opened up the Hana-Maui Resort (Kauiki Inn at the time), is remembered by a giant cross placed at the top of a hill across the street from the resort in 1960. Hike the 1.5 miles up the paved path for a panoramic view of Hana’s coastline.

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How to get to Hana

Part of Hana’s allure and lack of development is from how inaccessible it is. Travelers can fly into Kahului Airport on a major airline and then drive two to four hours along the 64.6-mile-long Road to Hana, built in 1926 when there were only narrow footpaths and horseback riding trails. The road is notoriously twisty and dangerous, but it’s a destination all on its own, offering waterfalls, lookout points, natural swimming pools and food stands.

If you want to skip the long journey, the Hana-Maui Resort also partners with Mokulele Airlines – the only airline that services the area – to charter guests directly into Hana Airport. The 45-minute flight from Honolulu to Hana is scenic as you fly over Molokai’s cliffs, waterfalls and Kalaupapa, the historic park and remote settlement where people with leprosy were quarantined in the 1800s. Once in Hana, you can rent a Jeep directly from the resort.

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How to be a respectful visitor in Hawaii

When you visit Hana, you can feel how intimate the community is and how proud they are of their cultural heritage. Being a respectful visitor is not only going to give you a better travel experience but also supports the community that makes the Hana so special.

Be open-minded and unafraid to strike up conversations with locals on what life is like here and what’s appropriate to do, Morton said. When exploring, pay attention to signs and remember you’re in someone else’s home. “If a sign says, no tourists respect that,” she said.

Most of all, think about where your money is going. “If you’re intending to come to Hana, don’t just come to Hana, use our restrooms, leave your garbage and then leave, please come to Hana and support our local businesses,” said Morton. “Eat at the food trucks, establishments, shop local and stay, if you can, because any support with our economy is really important.”

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